“Folks, meet Yu Ishihara, Design Director at Seiko Watch Corp.”
Recently, Centre Seconds was privileged enough to interview Seiko’s design director at the opening of the brand’s new boutique at The Exchange TRX. Although, the term ‘interview’ paints a more formal picture. Rather, I’d say we had a bit of a sit down and chat because Ishihara-san’s laidback demeanor meant it felt more like sitting down over coffee with a fellow watch nerd.
Just one with vastly more experience (and talent).
So, without further ado, here’s how the interview chat went down.
CS: Tell us a little bit about your journey at Seiko, from how it began to the current point in time?
Yu Ishihara: So while I was still a student in university within the design department of the Faculty of Engineering, a new industrial design course taught by Seiko designers was established, and I became one of the first students to take that class.
So several designers from Seiko came to teach to the course, and I remember they were the first professional designer I had ever meet met, and their fashion (sense) was very stylish. Industrial design to fashion. So through that class, I discovered the joy of design and the fascinating intersection of industrial and fashion design, known as a very wearable design. Wearable design, that’s right.
Later through internships during my graduate studies, I had the opportunity to participate in the design development of the first wristwatch style mobile phone. Wristwatch style mobile phone, that’s right, so you can, you could put it on the wrist. And it was called the WRISTOMO.
So after that, his career as a designer began in 2003. And at Seiko Instruments, which is the company within the Seiko Group that develops and manufactures watches, electronic devices and precision instruments.
In 2014, I was transferred to the watch design division. And in 2022, I was again relocated to the current position within the Seiko Design Team. Additionally, I also teach at my alma mater.
CS: You’ve designed Prospex and Grand Seiko models. They have quite different approaches in terms of who they appeal to, so did you have a specific design philosophy for each product or is there one philosophy that you always try to bring out no matter what type of watch you’re designing?
Yu Ishihara: There are indeed distinct and clear design philosophies established both with Grand Seiko and Prospex. Each brand design director directs the design according to whether it suits the brand and aligns with the design philosophy. Similarly, within the Seiko brand, each sub brand has its own design philosophy, considering different purposes and users. Of course, there are consistent commitments across all brands, such as a focus on safety and durability in design.
Moreover, Grand Seiko and Prospex differ not only in visual design, but also in aspects like exterior processing methods and finishing quality.
While individual designers have their own personalities and preferences, including favorite shapes and colors, these personal tastes are not directly reflected in the design actually. So instead, the designers use their unique traits to incorporate elements that suit the brand.
CS: What is the few elements in your design that MUST be present in each watch? And why?
Yu Ishihara: So, the perspective is subjective, rather than objective. Watches compared to other industrial products, like for example, mobile phones are very personal items, so incorporating subjective elements that resonate with individual users is crucial.
Since a watch is not only something you enjoy by yourself, but also something that is seen by others continuously, I place great importance on how it appears from an external viewpoint as well. Not just from your own perspective.
So, I always consider what kind of presence this watch will have for the user and how it will enhance their appearance in different situations. This constant consideration guides my design process – how it influences the whole outfit.
CS: As for your creation in the power design project, you’ve created “a watch exclusively designed for sunny men.” The core concept is based on the sun dial. How did this idea even come about?
Yu Ishihara: So, when considering the design concept for this power design project, I was simultaneously working on the design for Kodo movement.
Kodo is an ultra high precision project developed with a focus on how accurately a movement can measure time. However, I began to think, from the opposite perspective. Are there people who don’t need to know the exact time?
(Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon)
Which led me to choose a sundial, the oldest method of time keeping, which naturally aligns with the movement of nature. As I delved deeper into the study of sundials, I realized that displaying even approximate times requires various correction mechanisms, because when considering the mobility aspect of wearing it on the wrist. So, this led to the creation of a highly intricate, unique design. So, observing the shadow of the sun to tell time, which is essentially measuring time with astronomical precision.
So, a daily error of 0.00159 seconds. When I realized this, I found it fascinating that it could tell time so precisely without movements, maybe even more precise than Kodo.
CS: For our readers who might not be too familiar with how the watch works, can you explain the basics of how to read the time with this watch?
Yu Ishihara: There are several types of sun dials. And for this watch, we adopted a gnomon sundial. In this type, the gnomon, which is the dial central shadow casting needle. It must be precisely aligned with the direction of the North Star. Obviously, the North Star cannot be seen with the naked eye so that is a bit of a tricky one there.
Additionally, corrections are needed for the difference between the time indicated by the sun and the standard time of the observation location. So, this leads to a little bit of a complicated usage, which I will explain now.
So first, where to watch on your wrist, the only very easy thing to do, Next. You go outdoors in the northern hemisphere during the day, okay, so this is only specialized for northern hemisphere. So, then enjoy the clear weather.
Then use the compass on the strap to confirm the direction of the North Star. So from the vernal equinox to the autumnal equinox, you have to face south. Depending on the season, the shadow casting is different? So you need to do this kind of check first, find the amount of shadow, the right shadow.
Now that you’ve got all these very easy things to do, you unfold the dial. You have to set the arm in base, in the base group according to the latitude. But don’t worry, because if you don’t know the latitude, you can check the world map on the back of the watch.
So then you have to rotate the entire case to the season, okay, so from the vernal equinox to the autumnal equinox, the front side of the dial should face you. Then you have to rotate this in order to adjust the time zone.
You have to rotate accordingly depending on where you are. Otherwise, you won’t be looking at the correct time.
After you’ve done all these things, you can set the pin here and then you can check the time. Obviously you have to have it perfectly horizontal. You can check the spirit level. We thought of everything.
Then, at the end, you just feel the time.
That’s how to use it. Very easy, just practice.
CS: What’s the power reserve of this watch?
Yu Ishihara: So, what this watch observes is the movement of celestial bodies and the universe itself. Therefore, what drives this watch is the energy of the Big Bang, the birth of the universe. That’s the power reserve.
CS: Is there a small chance that this might be made into a limited production watch?
Yu Ishihara: This watch is quite complex, as you can see, with many parts. So, if it were to be produced, it could become quite expensive. So, now, there are no plans for limited production, but if an incredible number of enthusiastic requests reach the higher ups at Seiko, the possibility might not be, in theory, zero.
CS: I’m sure you had a lot of ideas before deciding that this was the one you wanted to create, what was the second-best idea and tell us a little bit about it.
Yu Ishihara: So if I disclose it, the ideas will not be fresh any longer. Let me keep it a secret, because it needs to be kept fresh for future exhibitions. Maybe we met there again.
CS: Of all your designs over the years, which one are you most proud of?
Yu Ishihara: Of course the Kodo, which took me more than 10 years to develop from the start to its release and I’m proud to say it has turned out to be a very beautiful model. However, the main feature of Kodo is its movement.
In terms of models that focus on exterior design, I am particularly impressed with the Transocean diver’s watch. The SBDC039 and SBDC037.
This one is exclusive for the domestic Japanese market, released In 2016. So this one falls into the luxury sports watch category, a trend that has been popular for the past few years.
It features an integrated metal bracelet, which is quite rare for Seiko. The design is characterized by its ambitious approach to creating a new design by intricately dividing the parts and incorporating new materials and new structures. For example, we have ceramic here on the bezel.
CS: … and the Seiko chaperone is giving me the sign to call it with this interview. Thank you so much for your time, Ishihara-san. Before we end it, shall we do a wristshot?
Yu Ishihara: Thank you, thank you. And yes, certainly.
