“Now, this is proof that Moser has a proper sense of humour!”
It’s not often at all that a luxury brand goes out of its way to show the world that, aside from producing well-engineered timepieces, it has a brilliant sense of humour. H. Moser & Cie is one of the very rare ones. Here is a brand that has so much confidence in its products that it can afford to portray itself in a not-so-serious light, something that
*coughcoughRowlaxcoughcough* some other luxury brands can be guilty of. H. Moser & Cie proves that it is, indeed, one of us.
So, what are we looking at here that proves the above mentioned point? First off, it’s not one but two timepieces that Moser has dropped. One, a refreshed take on one of its most beloved perpetual calendar models and two, a cheeky, playful but oh-so-charming take on the same complication.
“Let’s get (a bit) serious with the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue first…”
The (inhale) H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue is an updated take on the same watch which the brand itself credits as one that “contributed to the brand’s revival” upon its launch in 2015. For 2022, the updated Funky Blue features a new take on how the brand’s logo is depicted on the dial. Transparent lacquer is what they’re calling it and it looks superbly subtle, guys.
With perpetual calendars, there are moments where this complication can get a bit, well… Complicated. With Moser, this isn’t the case. At the very centre of the dial, a tiny hand points to the month while a massive date window at 3 o’clock features a ‘Flash Calendar’ function. It’s essentially a quick-change readout. At the 9 o’clock mark lies the power reserve indicator which – get this – gives you the countdown to its seven(!)-day power reserve.
Now, with most perpetual calendar timepieces, there is a fear that surrounds the operation of it. This is especially true when it comes to the date setting. However, H. Moser & Cie have engineered one that allows its users to simply unscrew the screw-down crown and set the time and date.
At any time of the day.
“Nice, very nice indeed. What about the tech spec-“
Hold up! Before we dig deeper, let’s quickly get acquainted with the limited edition, accompanying model. Ladies and gents, say hello to the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial.
I don’t say this often but this is a luxury, limited-run Swiss watch that I’d buy in a heartbeat. After selling my heart, perhaps.
While the regular model that we’ve just talked about pushes for simplicity and cleanliness across its dial, the Tutorial model is a laughable (in a good way) take on a frankly complicated complication. The dial is positively littered with notes and scribbles which attempt to explain the mechanics of such a complication and how to read it. Moser calls it a “perpetual calendar for dummies” and I for one am a complete dummy. I absolutely adore this.
If only I was filthy rich and got myself on the list of twenty. Yeah, that’s right. There will only ever be 20 units of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial for global consumption.
“aaaaand tech specs…”
Except for the obvious visual difference between the two models, specifications are pretty much identical across. The 18k white gold case measures 42 mm across and stands at 11.9 mm. Both sides of the case feature curved sapphire crystals and the screw-down crown has an ‘M’ insignia signed into it.
The dial sports the brand’s trademark fumé sunburst dial in Funky Blue and as mentioned, the logo is now laid out with a transparent lacquer on the regular model. The Tutorial instead features printed notes and scribbles detailing the perpetual calendar’s uses and functions. A beige kudu leather strap with an 18k white gold clasp is standard issue on both.
The movement is Moser’s 32-jeweled, in-house HMC 800 Manufacture calibre that beats at a rate of 2.5 Hz. Power reserve is a massive 7-day capacity with a leap year indicator. Yeah, you read that right. Instead of clogging up the dial with sub-dials and what have you, Moser has relocated the leap year indicator to the rear of the watch instead.
Big brain move by H. Moser & Cie once again.
Now… where can I list my organs for sale…